Negotiating the Four Counties in the hottest weather of the year. Phew!

Nearly didn’t happen as they caught COVID and she was still positive when we set off on Saturday 9^th July.  It was a hot start to the holiday and it was going to get hotter. 

We were off from the marina and heading towards Beeston before lunch then had a few locks to navigate, luckily with some company so it wasn’t too difficult (not that I’m much use with locks or steering.)  I kept watch as we went up through the staircase lock at Bunbury and he did it right.  It was fairly familiar ground (water!) as we headed for Barbridge where we moored up for the night. 

The next day we headed past the junction to Llangollen and we were in new territory.  Nantwich was the first stop and what a nice place that was (although one resident shouted from her car, “Take your dog home!”) 

We headed on hoping for better company and stopped on the edge of Audlem, a rather attractive large village.

Monday morning we set off up 15 locks – all single – but by the time we reached the top one it was lunch time and there was a convenient honesty bar by the side of the canal with pies and cakes etc.  After that, and another five locks which he did all on his own, we were making good time for Market Drayton.  We moored up, walked into town and stopped for a drink at a pub then it was back to the boat for a late tea.  Although not as hot during the day, the evening was stifling and I kept having to bark at people and dogs going past.

Tuesday we headed for Norbury Junction and had another 5 locks to negotiate but they had no problems with them and it wasn’t too hot.  I got a few walks but we motored right through Norbury Junction as there were no moorings.  Luckily, less than half an hour further on was the village of Gnossall Heath with plenty of room and a nice friendly pub. 

The next day we moved on stopping for fuel before the lock at Wheaton Aston which was followed by shady cuttings.  We continued to Brewood which had a nice café down the road from this strange building – Speedwell Castle – built on the winnings of a racehorse called Speedwell in the 18^th Century. 

The Shropshire Union Canal got quite narrow as it got closer to Wolverhampton though you wouldn’t believe it was near a city until we reached the junction.  As we joined the Staffs and Worcester Canal it got even narrower but still didn’t feel urban – not with herons on the towpath.

Our stop that night was by a pub called the Anchor close to a village called Coven. By now we were recognising some of the other barges doing the Four Counties Ring including one from Grindley Brook which overtook us the next day as we headed round the winding waterway to some locks.  Here some nice volunteers manned two of the locks by the unusual round tower that we didn’t get chance to visit. 

Our next lock (Boggs Lock) was left to them to negotiate (but they work as a team – he does the heavy work and she neatly steers the boat.  

By now we were ready for some tea but continued past the Moat House at Acton Trussell (characterless) and did another lock near Wildwood (not so wild) and on through lovely unexpected scenery and a couple more locks but I was hungry and they decided to end a long day at Tixall Wide.  As we entered the wide lake, passing a gap between two boats, it was soon clear there were no more places.  On we went to Haywood Junction where we turned onto the Trent and Mersey Canal.  Even there the moorings were full so we had to continue until there was space at the side of the canal to moor up. 

We did see some interesting boats – one covered in flowers – another with a nice name. 

Friday – yet another warm day – saw us pass through Pasturefields (with cows) and head towards Stone. 

Stone was a nice town which used to make beer.  It had a good place to eat by one of the eight locks along the canal where I finished off their burgers (mistake!).  We moored half way along the locks so Saturday morning, a hot day, started with the remaining four. 

I’m getting bored with locks!

We stopped an hour or so later at Hem Heath (a posh suburb of Stoke) and went to see Trentham Gardens which we all agreed was worth visiting.  Lots to see and sniff and two visits to the café for titbits and some strokes from the staff.  It was busy but so big we hardly got close to anyone (apart from another beagle owner who loved me).  

Too many photos to do justice to the place which has amazing wildflower areas, an Italian garden and boasts otters and watervoles (not that we saw any). 

We left Hem Heath and headed towards Stoke not knowing what great adventure awaited us as the guide gave lots of pages up to describe all the museums and industrial archaeology of the area.  

At the first lock (of 5) the advice was to get through Stoke and not moor up till we reached the outskirts – preferably Westport Lake by Longport.  There were no moorings anyway but the locks were difficult even though we had boats coming towards us which should have helped.  The bridges leading up to some locks were so low even I had to duck and the last two caused arguments between the one doing the heavy work (him) and the one trying to steer (her) with me desperate to get off.  

When I did finally get off we found ourselves on the wrong side of the canal - no towpath but lots of rabbits!  I wasn’t happy with having to jump on board as the boat banged along the wall and the rabbits scarpered.  From the last lock things didn’t improve much as we passed evidence Stoke’s old industry and the start of the new.  

I know which is worse.

Nature has a way of recovering the old industrial landscapes but how much is lost with the building of huge warehouses?

After a quiet Saturday night by the lake, we set off for the Hardcastle Tunnel but first we had to navigate past the Canada geese that had made the towpath their home.

Canada geese - just a bit too big to argue with!

It didn’t take us long to reach the entrance to the tunnel and all the boats that had set off early were still waiting for the southbound boats to exit.  Time to prepare with warm coats and torches.

Now you’ll note my bed is missing from the roof.  I was locked inside for the whole 45-minute journey through this tunnel in pitch dark as the entrance was sealed behind us.  It seemed ages before we emerged in Kidsgrove at the other end to find bright sunlight and orange coloured water in the canal.  Then the locks started and this time they were in pairs (though most only had one lock working).  The locks weren’t too bad but people coming towards us had grave news!  There was very little water in the locks by Hassall Green!

On Sunday night we stopped in a pleasant village, Rode Heath, and met a friendly teacher who had lost his beagle/Jack Russell earlier in the year so gave me loads of attention and shared a beer (not with me!).  We went to the pub for a meal but they’d sold out of fish and Sunday dinners so it was basic pub food (and no leftovers). 

The next morning, expected to be the hottest day of the year, we had an early start and continued down the locks.  Sure enough, on reaching the outskirts of Hassall Green there was a boat stuck.  The only shade I found was at the bottom of the lock though I did cool down when I fell in (not wearing my lifejacket) and had to be hauled out by my collar.

 

Ways to keep to keep the sun off

Hours later we cleared the last ‘dry dock’ with a grounded boat blocking the entrance to the lock.  By then it was lunchtime and we hoped to stop for a break but there wasn’t a mooring to be found between the other locks (14 in all!).  At 2.00 we found a space with some shade past Wheelock and called it a day.  A very hot and tiring one.

From Wheelock we had a few more locks to negotiate through Middlewich and then we’d be lock free all the way to the Anderton Boat Lift.  Sounded easy – but it wasn’t.  First problem was low water in the locks before we reached Middlewich.  Then, as the temperature on the hottest day of the year reached 38 degrees, we went to get some provisions.  One woman driver shouted, “Take your dog home!” But, to be honest it was no cooler on the boat and I certainly didn’t want to be left on my own.  Middlewich was how the book described it – pretty dismal. 

Back on the boat I collapsed and they put a wet towel over me then they collapsed for a couple of hours, only getting up to make sure I was still breathing and soak towels to cool us down.   Mid afternoon we set off again and reached the last lock, the aptly named Big Lock, in time for a cool drink in the shade at the lockside café.  I was treated to loads of biscuits by the staff and they chatted to a potential barge purchaser. 

An hour later we were heading off to find somewhere to stop for the night.  We went aground at one point and were all attacked by a cloud of biting flies as we passed a wide section where, luckily, there were no spaces along the towpath for us to moor.  We eventually found a space outside the Broken Cross pub on the edge of Northwich which served a nice selection of meals and allowed us to leave the boat there for 48 hours.

Wednesday morning, after making sure it was secure, we set off to the railway station where we got the train to Chester and, from there, a bus to Tattenhall.  Sat on the boathouse terrace and had a light lunch before going home.  Freedom!  Off the lead at long last.  I made the most of the time running free then, on Friday morning, we set off for Northwich for the final section.  It was pouring down.  Good for the plants and the water levels but not so good when sitting on the deck.  Our journey took us past the salt works before passing through rather nice woods until we reached Anderton.

The first surprise was meeting my mate, Malcolm, who’d been staying on the River Weaver on his boat and was now heading north.  After a long chat over coffee in the Centre, we went for a walk in the nature reserve (very nice) and then set off to go down the boatlift.  This time, they let me stay on the top but she had to go to the front.

Then, we were on the River Weaver, passing the path we’d walked along and entering the town which was nicer than Middlewich.  We spent the night tied up outside the dry dock where we were going the next day.

And then we waited till the water dropped and, for the first time, we saw its bottom.  It will be there for a week having a bow-thruster fitted and some paintwork done and then … who knows where we’ll be going?